The blues

Sew blue. Mini layers.

This quilt has a conventional side and a boro side. You can see parts of the boro side that is made up of some fabrics that I dyed in an indigo class with Rowland Ricketts at Arrowmont several years ago. I'm in the process of hand-quilting it with size 12 pearl cotton thread, my favorite. The pattern mostly follows the conventional side, with one nod to the moon-shaped resist on one of the indigo pieces (boro side).

the more conventional side before quilting

I am amazed at how meditative this has been. That is probably a response to my full week of hand-sewing at Arrowmont this year with Jody Alexander. I can hardly bear to do anything but stitch on this. It's also a healing process during an upside-down week.

It's been feeling a lot like summer here, as it should, since we just passed the summer solstice. I wanted loose clothing and imagined this until I finally made it up.

It is the Urban tunic from Indygo Junction, again lengthened three inches so that I can wear it as a dress, probably more often than not with leggings or jeans underneath. I guess that defeats the purpose of loose clothing though.

The fabric is a medium weight linen that was delightful to cut, press, sew. I did goof one part. I really should have added interfacing to the pocket openings. I can always unsew and correct that.

I have a blue jacket cut out and ready to puzzle through. It is the All About Details pattern, view B, from Cutting Line Designs. I will likely enjoy that process a great deal. It is full of Issey Miyake details. The CLD patterns almost always include a few interesting details to try, but with the Miyake inspiration, this one promises to be a particularly good puzzler.

So I guess I'll continue to sew the blues for now.

Read More

Indygo Junction Urban Tunic

This is a tunic I finished before I left for my trip to Paris. I even wore it once to dinner. Now I finally have time to blog about it.

I love it.

The Urban Tunic from Indygo Junction first came to my attention at Camp Runamuck, where Theresa discusses weaving, sewing, and the state of the union. I loved her versions and now believe I'll be making various versions of it too.

I made a partial toile (muslin) before cutting into my black linen. Much was revealed. I could see that I needed to lower the bust point about an inch, add a bit for hip room, and carefully ease in some fullness in the front armscye where gaposis was beginning. I also added 3 inches to the length so that it would be a dress, rather than a tunic. 

I chose the view with the cowl neckline. I like this in principle but in practice it is a little low for my comfort. I wore it last night with a necklace and that helped a bit.

I love the pockets. They are the simple in-seam style with little bulk because the pocket is stitched to the dress. I prefer this over a loose pocket with extra floppy bulk right where I don't want it. 

I finished the armscye with bias binding made from the black linen. It's a finish that appeals to me more than facings, at least in this case.

The additional 3 inches I added to the length did make this long enough to be considered a dress. Just. I added another bias strip of the linen to the hemline using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then I pressed it to the wrong side and top-stitched three times to secure it. I left the edge of the bias raw on the inside of the hem to avoid a lump.

I'd like to make another Urban Tunic soon, perhaps with the boat neck. That is the neckline used in my toile and it is just right. It might be that if I make this in a lighter color, I'll be brave enough to wear it with naked legs. My legs are so pale, it would almost have to be a white dress. We'll see.

In sum, I highly recommend this pattern and expect to be making more as tunics and, maybe, dresses. You know how it is with dresses. They are not the first item I grab when I'm getting dressed in the morning. 

Read More

MMM Day 8

Today is chocked full of errands. It's a little chilly but will probably warm up shortly. So I'm running out the door in this ensemble:

Vest:

This is the Peony pattern from the Sewing Workshop. Many years ago it was issued in a pattern with another vest, Poppy. Poppy was perhaps the more interesting but the least wearable. Peony is now a download-only pattern. It is composed of such simple shapes with lots of opportunity for variations. I've made it many times.

This one is in medium-weight denim. It started out quite plain and I took it with me on trips, adding the seed-stitch as I had time. The seed-stitch is used to create negative space for some creatures. It's finished now, I think. I added a simple patch pocket and a simple collar to the original design.

Shirt:

You cannot see it clearly but it's a a long-sleeved shirt with no collar and a front placket with a single button. It is a great layering piece. The pattern is from Cutting Line Designs Artist In Motion, a pattern containing this shirt and a vest. I got to name it for Louise, so that was fun. The fabric reads like a light-weight denim but it's a cross-dyed cotton that I embellished with sashiko.

Pants:

These are, once again, Helix pants (Sewing Workshop) in navy ponte from Gail K in Atlanta. It must be a ponte roma because it is softer like the one often labeled Sophia. It tends to grow over time and I've shortened them more than once. They are wonderfully comfortable.

Meanwhile when I have time from errands, I doing some pattern work on a new-to-me pattern, the Urban Tunic from Indygo Junction.

I made a toile/muslin for the upper body and learned a great deal. Now I just have to find time to cut it out!

I made just the upper portion and cut off the seam allowances on the neckline and armholes. The bust darts must be lowered an inch. The armhole needs a bit more fabric about 3/4 of the way down on the front piece, plus it'll need some of Marcy Tilton's stay-stitch-plus to avoid gap-osis there. I am adding 3 inches to the length in hopes it can be a summer dress instead of a tunic. I added 1/4 inch to back SA to allow for upper back curve and added about 1/2 inch to hips. Here's hoping it all works!

Read More

MMM Day 7

Dresses are always outliers in my wardrobe. I am ever optimistic and I make them and then I don't wear them much.

This one, from the Sewing Workshop, is a recent make that I've already worn several times. It is quite the understatement to say that it is comfortable. And it was nearly free because it is made out of ponte knit remnants I had lurking near my stash. The only fit is through the shoulders and maybe the bust.

At this point, I am convinced it's a keeper and I even have some ITY knit that should be lovely for this pattern. I'll be checking for lines to shorten it a bit. For now, I'm considering making a different dress. Never give up!

Read More

Memphis Fun

A new pattern is almost always a salivating experience for me. It must be that way for some people who enjoy jigsaw puzzles. It's never quite as much fun the second time around though.

The new Memphis dress from the Sewing Workshop was intriguing and a fun make. This one is a sort of wearable muslin. Since knit is required, muslin cannot be used, of course. So I used remnants of ponte in my stash.

I started with this purple remnant. I had just enough to test the bodice of the Medium. I could see that I'd need to take it in at the shoulders just a smidge. The pattern does not really fit anywhere else so I proceeded with the wearable version.

As with so many of these assymetrical patterns, almost every piece required cutting in a single layer. The exceptions were the sleeves and the back yoke. As you can see, I did not have enough of my remnants to cut out full length sleeves. That's OK anyway because warm weather is headed my way.

The pattern is designed with a forward shoulder.

The pieces came together flawlessly. This is no surprise - Sewing Workshop patterns are always beautifully drafted and the instructions are thorough. There was one grain line missing from one of the lower bands but it was easy to determine, based on the suggested pattern layout.

I tested it as a tunic before attaching the lower bands. Not too bad.

My two fabrics are both ponte knit but the black one is slightly heavier and more stable. I think this will cause the dress to grow. That may be a problem. I can always remove the lower bands and go with the tunic idea.

I have enough of a poly knit that may be worth trying next. But then I don't wear dresses. Much. Each time I make a dress, I think, maybe this time. I am the eternal optimist when it comes to sewing. Are you too?

Read More